The World Largest City “Ancient Angkor City of Khmer Empire"

Map of Angkor Capital

Ancient Angkor Capital (9^th century - 15^th century) locates in the area north of Boeung Tonle Sap (Great Lake) in which covered most territory of what is now Siem Reap Province, Cambodia. Sometimes it was called Mohanokor City, the capital of Angkor Empire. According to historian of the world, Angkor city was seen as the largest city of the world with the success of agricultural practice in that period of time. This city was established by King Jayavarman II (802-877) in AD 802. Kulen Mountain was the main place for king Jayavarman II to declare his power over the kingdom. Since Khmer ancestor in Nokor Phnom Era (Funan Era) and Chenla Era usually built stone temple, his royal majesty started building temple in this new capital. From the reign of a king to another king, Angkor City was expanded bigger and bigger. The population growth was as rapid as the increasing of temple building and other infrastructure development. During the reign of King Indravarman (877-889), temple building started at Rolous temple group in suburb city near Boeung Tonle Sap such as Prasat Bakong, Prasat Lolei, Prasat Preah Ko, etc. Then temple building began around and on the Peak of Bakheng Mountain such as Prasat Bakheng in the form of pyramid and other small temples in the reign of King Yasovarman (899 to about 910), son of King Indravarman and the Khmer King who started building Prasat Preah Vihear on Dong Rek Mountain Range. King Rajendravarman (944-968) started building Prasat Phimean Akas, Prasat Eastern Mebon, Prasat Bat Chum, and Prasat Pre Rup. Until the reign of King Jayavarman V (968-1001), Prasat Kleang Khang Cherng (Northern Kleang Temple) and Prasat Takeo were built, but Prasat Takeo was unfinished since his death occurred. Banteay Srey, 30km from the center of Angkor City, was built by kingdom official in his reign, too. After that, King Suryavarman I (1002-1049) added the upper pyramid on Prasat Phimean Akas and built Prasat Kleang Khang Tbong (Southern Kleang Temple). Later, King Udayadityavarman II (1049-1065) built Prasat Baphuon as the main center in the city; Angkor City was modified and decorated with other new temples. Until the reign of King Suryavarman II (1113-1150) that Prasat Chao Say Tevoda, Prasat Thommanon, and Prasat Angkor Wat (Wonder of the World) were built throughout his reign. However, all the construction was paused awhile and once damaged by Cham Army in 1117 in which they attacked Angkor City and racked the whole city. Then King Jayavarman VII (Youth name: Prince Jayavarthon) (1181-after 1201) overcame Cham army and took back the control on Angkor City. He reconstructed the capital with new temples such as Prasat Bayon (Angkor Thom), Prasat Taprohm, Prasat Preah Khan, Prasat Neak Poan, shelters for pilgrims, traditional hospital, routes throughout the kingdom, etc. When Angkor city was recovered, people from other provinces started to live around Bayon Temple (Smiling Temple) as the largest city center of Angkor City. There is not cleared about the year of King Jayavarman’s death. During his reign, nearly one million people lived in Angkor City. For the following century until the early 15^th century, Angkor City was the largest city in the world with great number of people. As a result of Angkor Empire’s golden age, there were many temples, living houses and golden royal palace. Besides that, there were also 2 large Baray (Western Baray and Eastern Baray), many water irrigation systems, city road (linked to other big cities of Angkor Kingdom such as Sambo Preykuk, Prey Nokor, Preah Vihear, Champasak, Suor Khet, Nokor Phnom, Baschem Borey, Nokor Reach Seima, Battambang, Lop Borey, O Keo, Ba Phnom, Sokhortey, Kanhchanak Borey, Ayuthyea, Nokor Sreythamareach and so on) and hospitals all over this city. The view of Angkor City’s livelihood can be seen on the wall of Bayon Temple and also through the 3-D video clip about Angkor Empire on the internet. Today, this ancient city in the forever green forest is being the most interesting Cambodia’s ancient site for tourism from around the globe. Lastly, Angkor City was the most fascinating and largest ancient city in the ancient time. There is an expectation for more million of tourists to visit this city in the near future and also a hope for achievement of the reconstruction for all ancient temples and water irrigation system in Angkor City soon to make it the greatest ancient city for the world again. “Memory of ancestor’s effort in golden age will be the greatest lesson for next generation!” “Culture and believe of nation always stay with the wonderful infrastructure of Ancient Angkor City!”

By: POK Panhavuth



View of Angkor City from the sky near Angkor Wat Temple

Angkor Wat Temple, “World Cultural Heritage & Most Famous Temple of Cambodia”

Angkor Wat Temple

Angkor Wat Temple ប្រាសាទអង្គរវត្ត (Naming Preah Borom Visnu Loka ព្រះបរមវិស្ណុលោក) locates a few kilometer from Siem Reap Town in Cambodia. It has been being a famous temple throughout the world since the start of discovery was conducted by French researchers in 1860. It was recognized internationally for its cultural value when Cambodia’s government registered it with UNESCO in 1992 as a world cultural heritage site which must be protected and conserved. Angkor Wat Temple was one of thousand Khmer temples had been built throughout the territory of Angkor Empire in which today include most territory of Thailand, southern territory of Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. According to historical documents of Cambodia, Angkor Wat Temple, sometimes called Angkor Toch Temple, had been built from AD 1113 to AD 1150 under the reign of Khmer King Suryavarman II. Before building Angkor Wat Temple, King Suryavarman II asked Khmer architects to design the temple plan and built Beung Mealea Temple on the ground floor a few kilometers from the site of Angkor Wat Temple in order to do the experiment for building good temple as Angkor Wat Temple. It should be noticed that Beung Mealea Temple was built before Angkor Wat Temple; it had the temple plan and sculptures exactly the same as Angkor Wat Temple, but nowadays it is in the worse condition than Angkor Wat Temple.

After the fall of Angkor Empire, Angkor Wat Temple was completely abandoned as most people were lost and the infrastructure was serious damaged (especially water irrigation system) through the war period. Some of Angkor residents were ordered by Siam army to leave Angkor City for Siam State (Thailand) as war slaves during Angkor City was conquered by Siam army several times in 14^th century; some residents were killed throughout this city and only few people left. As the peace had been kept for next century, people gathered to live in this city again and became one of the main cities in Cambodia, especially in Longvek Era of 16^th century. During that time, Angkor Wat Temple was in the glorious time again in which it was transformed to be Buddhism Pagoda for local people. However, later it was abandoned again while Cambodia lost the war and Siam army conquered Longvek Capital (in Kompong Chhnang today) in 1594 by using trick of Prak Duong (Duong Currency). Since then people were under bad condition while almost everything was robbed by Siam army and they also moved Khmer people near Angkor City to Siam State as war slaves again. Only few people survived through the escape to live in forest and came back to live near Angkor Wat Temple; but they lived quietly without contact with other residents in Kingdom and protected Buddhism by building small pagoda and houses from generation to generation inside Angkor Wat Temple until French researchers’ discovery over this temple. People living there usually played Pin Peat music (Khmer traditional music) every night with Khmer musical instruments to alert people for Golden Age of Angkor Empire. According to the speech long time ago of old people living in other part of Siem Reap who did not have a contact with these people considered them as hidden citizens left from Angkor generation or spirit of Tep Apsara and said that they always heard the sound of PIN PEAT from forest of Angkor City. After everything of Angkor Wat Temple was enclosed with the discovery, people of Siem Reap started to practice Buddhism in this place again and usually celebrated the national ceremony with traditional dance, free boxing (funny), etc. People from different provinces of Cambodia and some foreigners started to visit this temple more and more.

Then the black period of Pol Pot Regime came in 1975, people were kept out of sight on Angkor Wat Temple, except few soldier of Khmer Rouge army. Few decades of local war influenced from two different ideologies was finished; Angkor Wat Temple has been being recovered for its beauty until now. Today, there is a clear view on this wonderful temple among green forest in Ancient Angkor City. Angkor Wat Temple is surrounded by large water system and connected to the outsides through two bridges: front Naga Bridge & other bridge at the back. In front of Angkor Wat Temple and outside the surrounding water, there are two big lakes along the road towards the Naga Bridge and two small lakes along Naga Bridge inside this temple. There are two libraries near those two small lakes. The front gate of Angkor Wat Temple consists of three sharp towers (now broken) with smiling Apsara on the wall. With large area, territory of Angkor Wat Temple is believed to be a living city for Khmer people. It is expected that there were thousands of Khmer people living there. In the middle of this site, there are nine sharp towers of the temple; but only five of them are seen as unbroken towers. In side of this temple, there is the great place for thousand Buddhism statues and a storage place of water on the top floor. Most interesting spot of Angkor Wat Temple is the wall which has million of smiling Apsara dancing with flower on their hand and the greatest sculpture of Khmer art in second surrounding temple such battle of Lanka, historical gallery of Suryavarman II, heaven and hell gallery, charming of the sea of milk, victory of Vishnu over Asuras, battle of the gods, and so on. “Tourism at Angkor Wat Temple, the wonder of the world, is so fascinating!” “Come and see it!”

By: POK Panhavuth

HUY Meas - ហួយ មាស, “Thida Samleng Roneat Ek”, & Brief Background of SIM Touch - ស៊ឹម ទូច, “Army Singer”

HUY Meas

HUY Meas was a famous radio host and Lakhorn Niyeay (Modern Spoken Theatre) narrator and singer in Cambodia. She was born on January 06, 1946 in Svay Por Commune, Sangker District (Battambang Town now), Battambang Province. She was a youngest child among three siblings; HUY Siyoeurn (1^st brother) and HUY Saiyo (2^nd brother) who is now a teacher at Kork Banteay Primary School in Kork Banteay Commune, Rolea Ba’ear District, Kompong Chhnang. Her father, HUY Yoth, was an officer at Battambang Railway Station and her mother, BUTH Chin, was a housewife. Since she was a child, HUY Meas would love to assist her grandmother to pagoda for traditional ceremony. She usually contributed much effort to help older in that occasion such as smotr (in Khmer: ស្មូត), Dharma memorizing (សូត្រធម៌), and storytelling for illiterate old people with her tiny sweet voice. As ancestor told, HUY Meas was believed to have golden voice since her simple speaking and singing different during the public, so she was titled “Reach Thida Vohar Meas - រាជធីតាវោហារមាស”.

In early 1950s, HUY Meas attended Sor Heur Primary School (Sor Heur Secondary School now). Some radio researchers released the information that at home she just studied hard without ever singing for her family, but during traditional ceremony at school or pagoda she entertained the public with smotr, poem-telling, and storytelling about Khmer Tales and Srey He To Borotes. In the end 1960, she attended the women high school, Net Yorng. There she met PEN Rorn in the same generation and IM Song Seum, her senior. Not only studying at school, she also took some extra classes at her professor’s house for French Language, Mathematics, Ethics, etc. According to KEO Chanbo whose father was HUY Meas’s professor, HUY Meas was smart, tidy, and hard-working to be the most beloved student of her father, Prof. BUN Thorng. HUY Meas, PEN Rorn, IM Song Seum, and other students were taught not only school courses, but also music and singing since Prof. BUN Thorng was also good at Mandolin, Chapey, and Drum playing, singing, and other kinds of music. In the end 1962, ROS Sereysothea attended Net Yorng High School and studied with HUY Meas, PEN Rorn, IM Song Seum and other students during the extra hours. They became the beloved student group of Prof. BUN Thorng.

Being popular among various ceremonies with Smotr, speech and Dharma memorizing, in early 1965 HUY Meas was called to assist her professor who was the committee of the big three-day provincial ceremony, Sakmach Cheat.​ She showed her best ability in Smotr, singing, poem-telling, Dharma memorizing, and storytelling; all audiences surprised and admired her very much for both her voice and talent being well-known throughout Battambang. Besides, her professor also advised to register the singing contest in Sakmach Cheat. Being smart for entertaining people during that occasion, she narrated immediate speech plus lonely solo singing and then started singing “Reatrey Soma – Moon Night” of MAO Sareth, the original singer. Receiving the 1^st rank for women singer, her parents, professor, and other classmates were so happy and admired for her best effort.

Unfortunately, HUY Meas failed the first Diploma National Examination in mid 1965 and disappointed to take the second Diploma National Examination, she gave up her study and hid in the house not to meet anyone. Later, IM Song Seum went to meet and encouraged HUY Meas to think on the positive side of life. Then he introduced her to the Krosuong Khosana Kar in Battambang and sang for provincial singing group; IM Song Seum, PEN Rorn, and HUY Meas started singing together at Steung Khiev Bar (Sangker River Garden now) and later ROS Sereysothea attended the singing group at this bar. For just a short period of time, HUY Meas was so famous within Battambang and moved to Phnom Penh with PEN Rorn and IM Song Seum in the end 1965. They sang for Krosuong Khosana Kar in Phnom Penh as well as other restaurants and bars. They lived near each other in Tuol Kork area. Then HUY Meas was introduced to work at the national radio as a host in many programs such as culture, modern song, Lakhorn Niyeay, song narration, etc. Her co-workers for every weekend Lakhorn Niyeay were YUOK Kem, KHUN Pol, MEAS Kok, etc. As an example of her participation in the Lakhorn Niyeay (Modern Spoken Theatre) is known as she got a role of Neary Phal in Kompong Thom Chumrom Chit novel which her spoken voice was very soft and sweet to listen. HUY Meas was also introduced to a famous lyricist and musician, MA Laopi, and sang many songs written by him alone or with IM Song Seum since she was cautious of danger to contact other men who usually followed her and asked for love. According to KEO Chanbo, her father always bought all released songs of HUY Meas after she came to Phnom Penh; sometimes he and Chanbo wrote songs sending to Phnom Penh for HUY Meas to sing with some edition from famous lyricists. HUY Meas also sang the song for showing the development of Cambodia in Sangkum Reastr Niyum such as “Reatrey Phnom Penh” (Night in Phnom Penh), etc.

Just few months later, OUM Sophanoureak (called Yael), the best drum player at national radio, asked her for marriage and went to request her parents traditionally in Battambang. They got married legally with the satisfaction for both side old people. Their three-year marriage gave birth to a daughter OUM Somavattey (born in 1966 and now living in Switzerland) who became a famous singer in 1990s. However, HUY Meas’s life became harder and harder to survive since her husband being usually drunk and her mother-in-law being greedy to ask her to buy a car for Sophanoureak according to KEO Chanbo. When HUY Meas visited her professor in Battambang; she was so upset for her marriage. Her mother-in-law as well as relative-in-law usually spoke something to judge her as a dishonest wife secretly saving her earning for her own family without letting her husband know, but the truth was HUY Meas being so honest to support her family-in-law as well as her own. Being ignored for the current issue with her mother-in-law from her husband and his failure career of drinking alcohol, HUY Meas could not bear any more and one night the family conflict occurred. Her husband ordered her to say sorry to mother-in-law, but HUY Meas could not take that pressure for she was right; her husband wanted to commit domestic violence on her. HUY Meas was shocked and escaped in the night to stay with someone she knew because she already heard the worst experience of ROS Sereysothea with SOS Math. In the morning, she returned home and was told by her husband to put down her body to the floor to say sorry to mother-in-law.  Who could do that when they were not wrong? HUY Meas did not do it and was forced to leave the house without letting her to see daughter once again. In fact, Sophanoureak expected HUY Meas to return because her daughter was with him, but he was wrong since a strong woman would never return to the cruel family like that. Later, Sophanoureak wrote the songs such as Samleng Tro Khmer (OUM Sophanoureak), Baksey Kangork Meas (MEAS Hokseng), Kakvey Chanh Snae and Chheam Anatha (CHEA Savoeurn) to blame HUY Meas on the issue. In return, she wrote and sang the songs like Pka Sla Rus Roy, Chet Khos Pi Mun, etc. Pka Sla Rus Roy also was used by HUY Meas as a story for Lakhorn Niyeay on national radio. Until each party got a new couple, the anger had been eliminated. Sharing her heart with her professor’s family, HUY Meas used to say that in her life time being away from her daughter and no chance to take care of her was her mistake and please all the magic things in the world taking good care of her daughter.

In 1969, HUY Meas was titled “Meas Metrey” at national radio during ROS Sereysothea got title “Preah Reach Theany Samleng Meas” from King NORODOM Shihanouk. Later in the same year, HUY Meas got married with VANLY Kesaro, a high-class police officer. They lived together happy ever after and gave birth to two sons; VANLY Daly and VANLY Dodo (both living in the United States now).  HUY Meas was more and more successful with her career in singing and radio hosting. Singing with IN Yeng, SIN Sisamut, SOS Mat, YANG Chheang (called Samneang Rithy), etc in Lon Nol Regime, she was also asked to sing the patriotic songs like Sronoss Dey Khmer, Lea Pov Tov Bom Reu Cheat, Lea Srey Tov Chbaing, 3 Siblings, Kong Commando, Chun Cheat Khmer, Lea Mae Tov Chbaing,  Joun Por Tam Kyol and so on .

One day, HUY Meas (Meas Metrey) invited SIM Touch, a famous singer from military force (Kong Pul Thom Thmeur Cherng Ti 1) for interview in 30 minutes on national radio of Khmer Republic. SIM Touch also had good voice for long breath singing, especially sad songs. According to the interview, SIM Touch said that she was born in Kratie Province and then came to live in Phnom Penh since she was 10 years old with her older sister, but her parents lived in the province. Her favorite dessert was Chdov and best food for her was Trey Ang with Teuk trey (grilled fish with fish sauce). She never got formal education and just studied at home for both singing and Khmer Literature. She liked singing so much every time; she heard the song somewhere she started singing. Later, she attended the song contest in Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime and got the 1^st rank. She said that she used to have a dream to be a singer, but she did not expect to be famous as her at that time. As a singer for army of Lon Nol’s government, she used to go to the fighting field singing for all soldiers. She said she never got injured and usually made fun with soldiers. She was very pleased to do so and likely to go to the forest area as her favorite. The most famous songs of her were “Veasna Neang Phorp”,  “Bopha Ruh Roy”, etc.

In Pol Pot Regime, both of them were killed. They were the patriotic singers in Lon Nol Regime, so they were targeted to death based on the principle of Khmer Rouge officials while high ranking leader did not know clearly about real situation of society under his control. HUY Meas and SIM Touch were forced to leave Phnom Penh in different way on April 17, 1975 as other residents in Phnom Penh. VANLY Kesaro was called to welcome King NORODOM Shihanouk on that day that meant he was killed by Khmer Rouge. HUY Meas with her two sons rode the train to Moung Russey District, Battambang Province. She hid her background and lived as simple 17 Mesa people. However, during the second Khmer Rouge success anniversary on April 17, 1977, her background was known to the Khmer Rouge officials; she was forced to sing the songs during day time as a chance to sing in the last time in life. At night, Khmer Rouge captured her quietly, took her outside, and killed her. She is thought to be tortured before her death. Luckily, her two sons were not killed and fled to the United States after this regime. According to historical documents on Pol Pot Regime, the patriotic singer as HUY Meas would be tortured in the image as cutting blood line on the leg, cutting the tongue, etc. SIM Touch’s death was unknown. However, she is believed to be tortured seriously before her death as HUY Meas. In short, there is only the sadness for both of them and other Cambodian residents who faced the bad luck living in Pol Pot Regime from early 1975 to early 1979. “Only leadership in the roof should be avoided; leader should focus on what is happening in the low level of society, especially for his officials!” “Experience of great artists in the past is the lesson for next generation to focus and improve!”

(Source: Wikipedia Khmer Version on HUY Meas and Other Sources)

By: POK Panhavuth

Stegosaurus in Angkor City

Sculpture of Stegosaurus

Biodiversity and many kinds of species are common to be seen in Cambodia, the tropical country rich in nature. Natural water systems are everywhere throughout this country with large area of green forest as cool shelters for all life. Many strange animals were found alive in this region in the previous generation such as white elephant, singha, naga, large non-salty water fish in great lake, and so on. However, the discovery of stegosaurus in Khmer sculpture at Angkor City are so surprising since this kind of animal was lost in million years ago before the existence of human being on the earth. There is a wonder why Khmer sculptor left the stegosaurus sculpture on the wall of the ancient temple. How could they know this animal? Khmer people in Angkor Era are supposed to have the scientific ability to study all surrounding things that simply could be seen through the architecture and water system management in Angkor City. Therefore, it is almost true that Khmer people had found this animal’s bone somewhere that made them do the sculpture of stegosaurus on the wall of temple in Angkor City. Khmer people of Angkor Empire were considered to be smart in doing design and planning for building temple. Also, they were believed to be hard-working and serious, but kind and generous. When Khmer people focus on something, they often achieve it quickly and never to give up until the end of their life. Cambodian ancestors left brilliant legacy and great experience for young generation to conserve and find new thing to improve their life in Khmer style. In short, the sculpture of stegosaurus on the wall of Khmer temple shows that how hard Khmer ancestors worked and what their hope are for the Kingdom of Cambodia in new era. “Learn to be hard working and serious! Make your life change! Get what you want as quickly as you can!”

By: POK Panhavuth

SON Sreypich - សុន ស្រីពេជ្រ “New Singer with Sweet Voice as Oldies Singer of Cambodia”

SON Sreypich

SON Sreypich is a new singer in Cambodia with good voice from birth. She was born on January 01, 1985. Her place of birth is in Svay Poy Village, Takream Commune, Banan District, Battambang Province. Her father is a famous comedian and wedding singer named Sangsis (Birth name: Mary Son). She is the fifth child of 7 sibliings in her family. She and another two siblings, SON Seb & SON Sreynith, like singing as her father. However, her father has the intention for her to further higher education rather than singing. According to local news in Cambodia, she can sing since she was 15 years old. She did not sing until she graduated from high school (Bac II) in which she started attending wedding singing career with her father. Since then she has been admired for her good voice from people who heard her song in the wedding. However, she chose Tourism Management as her major at university instead, but she is surely promoting tourism in Cambodia as her university education. Until now, she has been being well-known with many songs she sang for Ministry of Tourism and the songs were written by the lyricist HUN Heng. Her voice is clear and sweet as the voice of female singers before POL Pot Regime such as HUY Meas, PEN Rorn, ROS Sereysothea, POV Vannary, SO Savoeurn, SIM Touch, etc. The songs described the natural view and the development of Cambodia, Kingdom of Wonder, are suitable for her voice to sing. When she sang emotional songs, her voice is considered to be great and very sweet. She is helpful and grateful. Recently, she is the supporter for her whole family since her father is being sick. She earns money through singing for Ministry of Tourism, Samdech Prime Minister HUN Sen, and other local singing productions. She also loves her own country and culture. On Khmer New Year days, she and other singers along the Bayon TV Group voluntarily went to sing for soldiers in Preah Vihear Province near the border as the show of sympathy for the invasion of Thailand over land around temple of 4.6 sq km and Preah Vihear Temple, World Cultural Heritage and Cultural Heritage of Cambodia from Angkor Empire. The show on TV of her and other singers was broadcasted for all Cambodian Citizens to watch in the period of three days in Khmer New Year (Buddha Year 2555) season. She is so friendsly as meeting soldier near the border. In short, Cambodia will get her reputation for good voice which lost for over thirty years. SON Sreypich will be the most famous female singer in the near future and will contribute to the fame of Khmer arts and culture. “Source of gold will be forever recovered again and again!”

By: POK Panhavuth

Water for Life in Cambodia

Water is very necessary for life on this Earth. The same as other areas of the world, water plays an important role to support life in Cambodia. Nearly fifteen million people have recently been living in Cambodia with different kinds of biodiversity in which depend on water resource throughout the country. According to history, life of Cambodian people and water was always united. On the sculpture of Bayon Temple’s wall shows that people living in Angkor City use water to support their daily life as Khmer people today. Water is used with different purposes such as supporting agriculture, using in the house, doing fisheries, and balancing the temple to stand for thousand of years. Water also sustains the ecological system as the way for the life of biodiversity and allows life to exist abundantly. Every where in Cambodia consists of water resource; there are a lot of water in some places & little in other places. However, most of the areas of Cambodia are full of water resource. The main water resource of Cambodia is Tonle Sap Lake (Boeung Tonle Sap) in which covers 3,000 sq km² in hot season and around 10,000 sq km² in rainy season. Tonle Sap Lake stores much water for use in the country and provides the living place for abundant biodiversity, especially fish which is the main food for Cambodian citizens. Another source is Mekong River which allows the flow of water from Tibet Area of China to Cambodia.  Big amount of water from Mekong River flows into Tonle Sap Lake in rainy season and flows out of it in hot season to lower Mekong River and Bassac River. Besides that, small rivers providing water resources flows from high land, especially from Cardamom Mountain Range (Chuor Phnom Kravanh) and Dangrek Mountain Range (Chuor Phnom Dangrek). Those small rivers are Sangker River, Maung River, Ropov River, Chikreng River, Sereysorphorn River, Bovel River, Meteuk River, Bati River, Sekong River, Sesan River, Siem Reap River, Pursat River, Staung River, Srepok River, Kampot River, Chinit River, Prek Chhlong River, Prek Thnort River, Toch River, Tatai River, East Vay Kor River, West Vay Kor River, and so on. Since then, it is remarked that for the early 20^th century, water resource is enough for lives in Cambodia, but now there is a big change that water flow has changed meanwhile the rain is not regular as before. There is a reason for that in which is the block of water at several hydropower dams along upper Mekong River and other branch river of it. It has changed the water flows and ecological system in Cambodia. There is a prediction that one day Cambodia will suffer from those activities done by upper countries of Mekong River. However, it is believed that Cambodia will get no problems if all countries along Mekong River consider more about the effects on Cambodia positively and they can find solution to avoid effects on this small country. “Helping Cambodia is helping the lives of million people and protecting biodiversity of the world.”

By: POK Panhavuth

Buddhism (Hinayana), Pagoda, and Monk of Cambodia

Khmer Pagoda (Wat)

After the fall of Angkor, Buddhism (Hinayana) has been the formal religion in Cambodia in stead of Hinduism which was the dominant religion since the creation of Khmer State in the early 1^st century under the leading of His Royal Majesty SORMA (King of Nokor Phnom-Khmer State) who later got married with King KORDIN from India. Therefore, Hinduism was brought by King KORDIN into Khmer State and it lasted until the end of Angkor Empire. It should be remarked that Buddhism (Mahayana) had also been one of the religion before and during Angkor Empire, too. The evidence for Buddhism (Mahayana) can be seen at Bayon Temple and other temples which were built by King Jayavarman VII such as Buddha statues, King Jayavarman VII statue sitting for concentration as Buddha, and sculpture on those temples in which most of them were damaged by some believers of Hinduism as violating the Buddhism (Conflict of Religion for short period of time in the end of Angkor Era). Buddhism of Mahayana and Hinayana were a bit difference in daily practice. However, since the Buddhism of Hinayana was more satisfied for Khmer people and the less reliability of Hinduism and Buddhism (Mahayana) in controlling the state losing documentations through the invasion from Siam State (Thailand), King of Khmer Kingdom and Khmer people changed to believe the Buddhism of Hinayana. Since then, there were a lot of pagodas and Buddhist statues built from the early of 15^th century. Pagodas (in Khmer called Wat) were built of wood other than stone which was used for building temples in previous era, so it was the end of temple building in Cambodia. Exceptionally, most of Buddha statues were built of stone. Angkor Wat Temple which was built from 1113 to 1150 under the King Sorya Varman II was changed to be Buddhism pagoda and became a popular pagoda in Longvek Era (from the end of 15^th to the end of 16^th century). More importantly, the tradition of letting young man to be a monk has been beginning from that time until today. According to the tradition of Khmer nation, most of the young men had to live in pagoda as a month to learn the Pali Sanskrit, Buddha’s dharma, Khmer Literature, Khmer History, and the psychological education. Some men went to live in the pagoda since the youngest age to serve the monk until they became the adult in which they could be allowed to live as a monk in the pagoda for showing their gratefulness for ancestors and especially their parents. They learnt to be the leader for the country as the leader for their family in the future. All Khmer men who used to live as monk were seen as the polite and thoughtful men for women to depend on. Buddhism of Hinayana allowed Khmer people to gather good documentations from one generation to another generation by keeping in the pagoda. However, those documentations usually lost several times during the war with neighboring countries such as Siam State (from 15^th to 19^th century) and Vietnam State (from 17^th to 19^th century). Most of important documentations and valuable Buddhist statues were taken to Siam State through the invasion several times after the fall of Angkor Empire, especially during the invasion of Siam State on Khmer Kingdom in conquering Longvek Capital in 1594. Some of the left documentations were fired by both countries in the following regime. Even though there was less documentation and a lot of wars, Khmer people still did their best to protect and gathered their memory about Buddhism into documentations again. Under the French colonial, Buddhism was more secured and developed in good condition. After getting independence from France on November 9^th, 1953, Buddhism was in the golden age until April 17^th, 1975. Unfortunately, every thing related to Buddhism was seriously damaged in Pol Pot or Khmer Rouge Regime. Most pagodas were broken and some of them were considered as the place for storing rice, salt, and living place for pig, etc. Therefore, picture on the wall and ceiling of Khmer ancestors in ancient pagodas whose age was more than 100 years was affected in bad condition as the example of Kompong Trolach pagoda in Kompong Chhnang Province. Most of Buddhism documentations were completely fired and most of the monks were killed. For a few decades of these local wars in Cambodia, Buddhism reduced its influence on Khmer people’s believe since the practice of some monks today has been seeing weaker and weaker. As the result, some of residents in this generation still believe on Buddhist in mind other than some of the monks. However, the Buddhism practice and believe of Khmer people in some area of Cambodia, southeastern area of Thailand, Kampuchea Krom region (southern region of Vietnam), and in foreign countries is considered to be good. In short, there is optimism for better practice of Buddhism in Cambodia in the future as the golden age (1953-1975) and a hope for Buddhism management to take action to reform what is bad into good again. Buddhism is really important since it is the guideline for Khmer people. “If there is a change, Control it in good manner!”

By: POK Panhavuth

SIN Sisamuth - ស៊ីន ស៊ីសាមុត “Akthireach Samleng Meas” (Golden Voice of Cambodia)

ស៊ីន ស៊ីសាមុត

SIN Sisamuth

SIN Sisamuth was the most famous singer and talent lyricist in Cambodia before Pol Pot Regime, titled “Akthireach Samleng Meas”. His voice is soft and very sweet to listen. He sang different kind of songs like traditional (Romvong, Lam Leav, Saravan…), Rock & Roll, Twist, Jerk, Jazz, Cha Cha Cha, Ago Go, Madison, Hala Hala, Mambo, Ayai, Yikae, Chapey, Bassac, emotional, etc. He was born on August 23, 1932 in Steung Treng Province. On the day of his birth, there was the strange phenomenon that all the chicken in the village shouted as the welcome for his birth in the year of rooster. SIN Sisamuth had four siblings; two brothers and two sisters. He was the youngest child in the family. His father, SIN Leang, was the prison guard in Battambang Province and the former revolutionized soldier against the French Colonial; later he died because of serious illness. SIN Sisamuth used to live with his father some time in Battambang Province. His mother, SEB Bunlei, was a Laotian-Chinese; after the death of his father, she remarried and gave birth to another two children.

SIN Sisamuth was considered as serious and helpful. He was a quiet man and some days talked only a few words per day; he usually locked the door of his room and concentrated on song writing. In writing songs, he usually consulted with three different dictionaries (Khmer, Pali, and Sanskrit) to choose the right words carefully. His house in 1970s was near Tuol Tumpong Market (Russian Market) along the road 454 in Phnom Penh today. His favorite food is Laotian and Khmer food including Prohok and Pha Ork Trey; he did not have alcoholic drinks, chili, pepper and cigarette since it affected his voice. Additionally, one of his friend said that while he and SIN Sisamuth was drinking coffee in the morning; SIN Sisamuth talked and felt unconscious about the amount of sugar he had put into his coffee. Therefore, it means that SIN Sisamuth did not take much sweet things that might cause problems to his voice. It should be noticed that after finishing performing, he usually ate porridge with his co-workers and SIV Sun was an administrative person as secretary of SIN Sisamuth to arrange the documents tidily and assist SIN Sisamuth in other administrative tasks. In his free time, he likes playing soccer and flying kites. Besides, he likes watching film, Khmer and French. He could speak Khmer, Lao, Thai, French and English very well.

He attended the primary school in Steung Treng Town when he was five years old. He was a smart and kind boy reading books during his free time; everyone in the school liked him. He also showed his interest in music when he was 6 years old, his school usually called him to play guitar during the special ceremony. Furthermore, he usually visited the nearby pagoda studying more from monks about Khmer Literature, Pali, Sanskrit, and the articles on Buddhism. His hard working brought a success for higher education. In 1951, he moved to Phnom Penh to pursue his higher degree in Health Science staying with his uncle; he rarely went out and just stayed at home after school. Being interested in singing and musical writing, he strived very hard to learn by himself for both skills. His talent showed up in the college being popular among students and professors. He was usually nominated to sing and play musical instruments during the college ceremony. Simultaneously, he created a band, Preah Chan Reaksmey, consisting of 9 members. In early 1953, his band became so famous in Phnom Penh and was invited to join the national radio band, Reach Sey. Then he sang in many occasions such as wedding ceremony, radio program, etc. His parents were not happy about him taking singing career, but he had to pursue what he likes from birth.

In 1953, he became a famous radio singer singing and writing music using mandolin. Simultaneously, he graduated from college in the major of Health Science and also worked for Preah Keto Mealea Hospital besides singing career. After that, he married his cousin, KHAO Thorng Gnut, as the arrangement of older people in the family and got four children for the following years. He used to challenge in a singing contest in Phnom Penh and got the second rank since he lacked of gesture while he was singing. In fact, everyone believed that he had the greatest voice and would get the first rank if he used gesture well. His fame had been quickly well-known and the information was brought to Queen SISOWATH Kosomak Nearyrath Sereyvathana, the mother of King NORODOM Shihanouk. She invited SIN Sisamuth to join the royal band singing for the formal occasions of the Royal Palace.

One of royal songs sung by SIN Sisamuth was “Romvong Ekareach” to alert all Cambodian residents to show their happiness and solidarity for Khmer Independent. Also, he and his friend, SOS Mat was appointed by Queen SISOWATH Kosomak as the permanent nurse in the Royal Palace, too.  Since then SIN Sisamuth gained more respect and honor from the public and royal group; he was filmed in King Shihanouk’s movies singing with SIENG Dy still remained until now. In the 1950s, he pursued his singing career in public with other singers and lyricists like SIENG Dy, MAO Sareth, KEO Setha, POV Sipho, SVAY Som Oeur, HASS Salorn, MA Laopi, SOS Mat, MAE Bun, etc. In Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime, SIN Sisamut usually followed King NORODOM Shihanouk to overseas singing. The King’s songs he sang were “Phnom Penh”, “Reatrey Chuob Pheak” (with KEO Setha), Tassana Krong Phnom Penh (with MAO Sareth), and so on. Other famous songs are Somros Chhnae Kep, Chong Srol, Violin Snaeha, Anusavry Phnom Kravanh, Srey Sros Khmeng, Prek Eng Os Sangkheum, Steung Pursat, etc. Unfortunately, his fame caused the family conflicts and his wife went back to Steung Treng Province being a nun.

His voice became sweeter and sweeter. In 1963, he sang the song “Champa Battambang” quickly catching the attentions of all Cambodian people; this song was broadcasted as the first song on Khmer TV in 1965 according to his interview on TV in 1971. In this 1960s, his popularity went to the peak of his fame. He started to sing with next generation singers like SO Savoeurn, DY Saveth, PEN Rorn (1966), ROS Sereysothea (1967), HUY Meas, IN Yeng, MEAS Samorn, HEM Sovan, etc. Singing not only in Khmer, he also sang in English, French, and Thai. Therefore, he got an innovative idea to mix the music of foreign and Khmer together creating very good songs. In 1967, he wrote and sang the song “Champei Siem Reap” for his wife; they lived together again. He continued to write more songs; his songs were more famous with his new singing partner, ROS Sereysothea. Unfortunately, ROS Sereysothea returned to Battambang Province because of the conflicts with her husband, SOS Math. Facing such situation, he took action to recover by persuading ROS Sereysothea to come back and protected her from the disturbance of SOS Math. One day, he stood to prevent SOS Math disturb ROS Sereysothea while they were singing together the song “Kort Bros Mok Khmol”. He said he was the one to take her there, so he must the one to protect her. Then SOS Math left there quickly.

On March 18, 1970 the coup d’état in Phnom Penh caused a change to the life of SIN Sisamut. He was forced to sing the patriotic songs against King Shihanouk and Khmer Rouge Army even though he paid respect and trust to King Shihanouk and Royal Family. Those patriotic songs are “Lea Srey Tov Chbaing”, “Samrek Chheam Khmer”, “Lea Pov Tov Bomreu Chiet”, “Bong Ba’Oun Bei Neak”, etc. In this regime, he did not have enough time to write songs, so most of the songs he sang were written exclusively by other lyricist VOY Hor. His voice still kept him the most famous male singer in Cambodia from the early 1950s to the mid 1970s. In 1974, King of Thailand called him to live in Thailand and be a singer for Thai nation instead of Cambodia. Being wrong to think that way for SIN Sisamut, he would devote his life to die in his homeland better than running away, so he refused to that request.

On April 17, 1975, SIN Sisamut forced to leave Phnom Penh separately from his family for Koh Thom district, Kandal Province. On the way, he met KONG Bunchhoeurn and talked a while; a Khmer Rouge Officer came with the radio broadcasting his song and asked him whether that is his voice (Nis Chea Samleng Mith Men Te?). One month later in Koh Thom District, he was forced by Khmer Rouge officers to sing the songs for Khmer Rouge Regime, but he failed to satisfy the Khmer Rouge Officers. On May 18, 1976, he was killed; before he was killed, he asked the Khmer Rouge Officers to sing a patriotic song as the last voice of his life. Somehow when he finished, they killed him immediately. His wife and two children among four children were alive after this black regime.

In conclusion, life of SIN Sisamut (1932-1976), Cambodia’s Golden Voice, was a real experience for all people to study and learn. Being so sad to lose such a talent person from Cambodia; not only his talent in arts and medical skill, but his strong supports on his nation was gone with his soul. He died with less hope for the future of Cambodia; but his soul will see the development of Cambodia today and keep smiling again for the future prosperity of Cambodia. “Even though there is the death in front, believe and trust on own nation will never be forgotten!” 

(Source: Wikipedia on SIN Sisamuth in Khmer Version and other sources)

By: POK Panhavuth

Fall of Phnom Penh in 1975 & Brief Life of Pen Rorn in Pol Pot Regime

Ghost City

On April 17, 1975 Khmer Rouge army overcame Lon Nol army with strong struggle and trick over Lon Nol’s army. Khmer Rouge army had broken the Cambodian-Japanese Friendship Bridge in 1973 and controlled all the way in which the support for Phnom Penh such as food and weapon was conducted. Khmer Rouge army fought with Lon Nol army who was in Phnom Penh by attacking through all directions around Phnom Penh and threw bombs over Phnom Penh city for a few years before occupying Phnom Penh successfully. Also, Khmer Rouge army used psychology to defeat the army force of Lon Nol such as there would be peace and integration of Khmer Rouge army and Lon Nol army into new regime and told a lie on microphone that some areas of Lon Nol was defeated while they had not been conquered yet. Besides that reasons for success of Khmer Rouge, most civilians in Phnom Penh already supported the attack on Lon Nol side since they loved King Norodom Shihanouk. After the conquer was conducted, Khmer Rouge army immediately forced Phnom Penh people or 17 Mesa people with the population of over 2 million people to leave Phnom Penh by telling that Khmer Rouge army needed to clean the city and telling a lie that United State of America’s air force would drop bombs over Phnom Penh; all people would need to leave only three days and return to Phnom Penh after that. During that day, the situation of Phnom Penh was so bad to see. There were a lot of injured people and broken building with fire and smoke throughout this city. All foreigners in Phnom Penh rushed to get into their embassy for the opportunity to leave Cambodia safely. Phnom Penh people felt not clear about the situation. First time for arrival of Khmer Rouge army, they appreciated for the conquer over Lon Nol army with expectation for peace after ending this 5-year war since King Norodom Shihanouk was considered to be the top leader for new regime, but later they felt very scared for Khmer Rouge army’s activity. Pol Pot (Birth name: Salot Sar) led the country in the wrong way for the prosperity of Cambodia and kept King Shihanouk only the symbol for power and the head of state until April 2, 1976 he resigned while he was kept in the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh. Wrong expectation made all citizens disappointed after April 17, 1975. The memory of that day would never be forgotten. Khmer Rouge army used guns to threaten Phnom Penh people to leave their house and someone who slowly moved out of their house or seemed no intention to leave as the command of Khmer Rouge army; they were killed suddenly at the place. A lot of civilians were believed to be killed just only that day. People who agreed to leave took only some food, cloth, and valuable things with them and walked through the crowd along the road with their family. Some family members were not with their family during that time since they were in other places, so a lot of people were believed to get lost their family on that day and never be able to meet their family anymore because most of them died in different places in Pol Pot Regime. Along the road, there were a lot of vehicles stopping untidily such as car, motorbike, bicycle, cyclo, etc because of the owners were forced to leave their vehicles immediately when Khmer Rouge army completely occupied the whole city. Money case of Lon Nol Regime was put away on the ground. People walked and walked in the big crowd through city road towards each national road. Along all national roads, there was a group of Khmer Rouge army checked the identity of people to find Lon Nol army and high ranking people; if they found, they would be captured and killed at other places by keeping out of people’s sight or taken to Tuol Sleng (Monty SAR 21) in which had been Tuol Svay Prey High School in Lon Nol Regime. Under the heat of the sun in April, it was believed to be hard for people to walk out of Phnom Penh towards the destination in the countryside. After many hours had gone, Phnom Penh became very quiet and was cleaned by Khmer Rouge in which all roads were emptied; then only some of Khmer Rouge army stayed in this city. Phnom Penh looked like “Ghost City”. Additionally, not all Khmer Rouge army agreed to do so, some leaders in the army tried to debate for this action and opposed to the regime, but all of them were killed continuously in 3-year 8-month 20days regime as most of the Lon Nol army and officials who escaped to countryside with their family, too.

PEN Rorn - ប៉ែន​ រ៉ន

Famous Singer (Before POL Pot Regime)

Not difference from other people living in Phnom Penh, many Khmer artists including singers, musicians, dancers, authors, radio hosts, movie stars, and so on were forced to leave Phnom Penh for different destinations. Among of those, Pen Rorn, a well-known female singer in Cambodia, with her two sons were forced to walk out of Phnom Penh through national road number two in which she was broken away with unknown reason from her husband and her sister, Pen Rorm. As the witness in Takeo province, aunt Bun Yoeurn who was a person to share the cooked rice to 17 Mesa people along national road number 2 said that she met the famous singer “Pen Rorn” when she came to get the cooked rice from her and told aunt Bun Yoeurn that she was a famous singer and told her name. At first time, she did not recognize her because she had never met Pen Rorn like this before just only used to see her on the stage when she came to sing the song for King Norodom Shihanouk opening celebration of the infrastructure achievement in the province one or two times in Sangkum Reastr Niyum regime. She told the researcher who broadcasted this information on radio throughout Cambodia, especially broadcasting on radio in Battambang several years ago. According to aunt Bun Yoeurn, Pen Rorn was forced to go to Komar Chheanmok village in this province. After having a meal with her two sons, Pen Rorn continued her travelling to that destination. There is a believe that Pen Rorn was forced to work in agriculture as other people from Phnom Penh and had the same condition. 

In the early 1976, Khmer Rouge organization cheated Phnom Penh people in Takeo to tell their background while living in Phnom Penh and told that they would return all Phnom Penh people to hold the same position in Phnom Penh as before. Without knowing this trick, Pen Rorn registered her name on the list with hope to be a famous singer again while other 17 Mesa people did the same as her. However, Khmer Rouge organization planned to kill them all by taking them to put in Trop Kor pagoda for a night. Lok Ta Achar Nang, the witness, saw them lead those people including Pen Rorn and her two sons walking towards Trop Kor pagoda from the top of palm tree. In the pagoda, there were Pen Rorn and her two sons, Trong Orng, Kloy Dey, and other Phnom Penh people as family. Next morning, Khmer Rouge committees cheated all 17 Mesa people in the pagoda that they would take them back to Phnom Penh now. Then Khmer Rouge soldiers closed the eye of them with something (maybe kroma or black piece of cloth) and tied their hand with rope together to walk in line towards the north of pagoda. Along the way, Khmer Rouge soldiers asked all of them include Pen Rorn to take off all their cloth except underwear by telling them that they needed to get across the river and would get new cloth at the other river bank. Suddenly, Pen Rorn said “Pu (uncle) could take it as pu wanted since I had some cloth left in the cloth pack”. Then she and other people took off the cloth and gave it to the soldiers. After that, those soldiers reached B-52 big hole that prepared in advance with stick and other sharp equipments near it. This place was in the north 200 meter away from Trop Kor pagoda in Takeo province. Then those soldiers started to hit those people including Pen Rorn and her beloved two sons dead and pushed their body into the B-52 big hole. There was a wonder whether Pen Rorn knew in advance about the trick or not before she was killed since there was no river.

As this really happened in Cambodia around 35 to 36 years ago, there is still the sad memory for this events and a wish for it not to happen again in our country. Millions of Khmer people and other ethnic group died within the local war as the example of Pen Rorn’s death in Pol Pot Regime. The experience of instable political system gave the understanding that to stand in the world even though our country is small, there is a need to be self-independent with our own believe for our nation and the stability of country should be the first thing to be considered before making decisions to do something because peace is really important for Cambodian people nowadays. However, the opportunity for development has just been going on slowly and now we are getting trouble with Thailand near the border of Oddarmeanchey and Preah Vihear Province against Sorin and Sisaket Province of Thailand in which Thailand claimed (Thailand uses map made by himself alone) over the territory of Cambodia according to international court’s decision and Franco-Siam Treaty. It is only that there is a hope for border resolution soon and all Khmer people (Cambodian, Khmer Sorin, Khmer Krom, Khmer people in Laos, and Khmer people in far foreign country) should be united altogether even though we are living in different places around the world. Khmer helps Khmer is the best way towards the prosperity of Cambodia and Khmer nation. “Challenge in development is better than challenge in only voice or fighting!” “No one is perfect!” “Past experience is the great lesson for life!”

By: POK Panhavuth

(Songs of PEN Rorn)

Clip as Example for the day of April 17, 1975