Phnom Banan and Her Temple, “Natural, Historical, and Cultural Tourism Site in Battambang Province”

Ladder to the Top of Phnom Banan and Her Temple

Being not so far from Battambang Town, Phnom Banan is surely one of the best natural tourism sites mostly during holiday and weekend for family picnic travelling of local people as well as other tourists from different places inside and outside of Cambodia. Tourists usually go there through the road along Sangker River running from Battambang Town or now new road linked national road 57A (old national road Nº 10) to this road in the midway just travelling for the rest to Banan mountain. However, if all tourists travel through the old road along Sangker River, there will be much more good scenery to see like old ancient Khmer-style wooden houses, Sangker River and other side river view, grape orchard, Pursat orange (most famous and tasty fruit of Battambang) orchards, other orchards, pagodas, rice field, and so on. Many sweet Khmer songs of the most famous singers before Pol Pot Regime were written and sung describing the view in this area as well as Phnom Banan. Today, new written songs were also sung describing these views, especially by a new singer born in this area, SON Sreypich. Just a few hours, Phnom Banan could be seen on the right hand side. Driving motorbikes or other vehicles, all tourists would be much more comfortable with local suitable price parking lot. Being in shade, everyone will surely satisfy this trip. Local sellers could provide various delicious local foods to everyone. There are more renting kiosks for tourists to take a rest enjoying picnic with family or friends; tourists could bring food to the mountain top for eat and find a suitable place by yourself. Not only mountain, ancient Khmer temple is here welcoming all travelers to visit and know the history. A special thing here is for everyone to know. This mountain is the strategic area for national defense against the enemy in the past; the underground path was built starting from this mountain to far area of Thailand today. Ancient lakes near mountain are also fascinating with lotus and other green plants. Today this underground path was in the worst condition and could not use anymore. Techo Damden was a national hero linking to the history with this mountain. Being in the top of mountain, all tourists could visit the ancient five-top temple by climbing the repaired stone ladder with ancient Naga and Lion statues at first. Higher and higher under the tree shade, green view of the mountain as well as large green rice field is amazing to see and memorize for life. A bit thirsty, tourists could look back down seeing how many ladders you climb up and you will do feel excited for that. There! On the mountain top, everyone could enjoy seeing the remaining sculpture of this old broken temple and the view around the mountain. You will know how hard ancient architects do to achieve this architectural plan and how hard work local people do to build this stone temple. The efforts of them remain for us as the cultural heritage bringing daily revenues for both local people and country as the whole from national and international tourism. “Taking a relax, coming to Banan mountain and enjoying life with family and friends” “Loving fresh life, having a good environmental protection habit”  “Environmental protection could be done by everyone’s efforts plus right place rubbish bin” “Do your best to bring benefits for Cambodia as your birth nation!”

By: POK Panhavuth

Scenery at Phnom Banan and Surrounding Area

Cambodia & Her Health Science

College Students Studying Health Science in Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime (1955 - 1970)

Being the most ancient Kingdom in mainland South East Asia, health science has been playing significant role in daily life of people in Cambodia. There are many ways of treatment throughout the kingdom. In the early stage of health science’s evolvement, ancient doctors used the natural drugs taken from forest or green plants around their living place. It was true that in that generation, each family also had their own ways of treatment transferred from their ancestors while only the king had royal excellent skilled doctor group. In Angkor Era, health science for residents in the kingdom was improved under the lead of King Jayavarman VII; there were many ancient hospitals built along the national road linking from Angkor Capital to other main cities of Angkor Empire. Many kinds of natural drugs were stored in each ancient hospital and used for public treatment. Later, the health science was almost lost through internal and external wars in this kingdom. Until Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime (1955-1970), the health science full of modern equipments & techniques getting from France grew quickly again and many famous specialized doctors and nurses serving local citizens confidently; all residents in that regime showed their trust on local health service. However, the later three decades from early 1970s to end 1990s conflicts and wars in Cambodia, both human resources and equipments in health science were completely lost in the war and everything for health science has been being slowly recovered until today. Poor service in some public hospital was known to local people; most of the rich families in the Kingdom went to nearby countries for their treatments while poor people were patient to use health service in public hospital mostly less standard service. Today, many private hospitals have been opening and operating day to day to satisfy the needs in health science in stead of the public hospital. Lacking of professional skills is not really applied to all of human resources in health science, but the habits after war is teaching new human resource to adapt the bad habits from previous generation. In order to recover quickly, there should be more actions to eliminate those habits and apply the good standard as the human resources in Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime. Research should be done to note all the good practices of Khmer human resource in health science from 1953 to 1975 in order to release the effective and efficient ways to serve local people confidently full of trust from them. For example, money was not the main thing in mind of all doctors while life was the most special thing in mindset of human resources in Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime as well as Lon Nol Regime. “Satisfy the maximum needs of doctors and nurses first in order to bring the best health service to all local people!” “More standard service and code of conduct must be in force for all human resources in health science as the preparation for better future health service in Cambodia!” “Best! Special! Polite!”

By: POK Panhavuth

Independence Monument, “Independence of Cambodia and Khmer People”

Independent Monument at Night in Phnom Penh ("Photo by Ethan Crowley")

Independence is very important for each nation to lead their own fate towards future. Independent monument represents the real strength of the nation. Cambodia got the independence on November 09, 1953 and built Phnom Penh’s Independence Monument in 1958 as the national commemoration. 100 heads of Naga (dragon) on the whole top of this monument styling to the Angkor Era was mixed with modern creative ideas of VANN Molyvann, the famous architect in Cambodia. Therefore, being surely needed, independence for Khmer nation could be divided into two – independence country as Cambodia and independence community control in nearby countries.  Why independence is so important for Cambodia and all Khmer people even in surrounding countries as the previous territory of Angkor Empire? Later centuries after the fall of Angkor Empire, Cambodia had been controlled several times by Siam Kingdom (Thailand), Annam Kingdom (Vietnam), Japanese Occupation (Japan), and French Colonial (France).  Most intelligent and popular Khmer people would be killed immediately for the fear of powerful independence rebellion; more territories were cut off from Cambodia and many valuable things were taken out of Kingdom to each country controlling Cambodia. Not only taking most properties and large territories, Thailand imported from Cambodia all the literate work of Khmer Language for Thai language development as well as the ancient rule for controlling country many times, elephants, intelligent people, and thousands of local Khmer citizens as their slaves, especially also damaged all the remaining main original documents of Cambodia. From century to century, fewer documents left in the kingdom and only royal family members and monks could go to Bangkok for higher education, but the lessons were mixed with new things Thailand provided and original lessons taken from Cambodia were surely not provided for learning. Furthermore, Thai King had issued a policy for only Thai language speaking since 1950s and 1960s caused millions of Khmer citizens in Thailand illiterate for Khmer language. Besides, coming the marriage of Vietnamese Princess and King Chey Chetha II of Cambodia since the early 17^th century, Vietnam also controlled Cambodia often in 17^th and 18^th century taking large territories of Kampuchea Krom, cruelly killing million local citizens (Kampub Tae Ong Strategy: using head of Khmer Krom people instead of cooker boiling their tea to serve their Ong - boss), changing name of all provinces in Kampuchea Krom to Vietnamese as well as today provinces of Cambodia while they controlled Cambodia, and damaged most temples and Khmer literate documents. Once again from 1979 to 1989, Vietnam controlled Cambodia flowing almost all of most expensive and valuable things as well as natural resources out of Cambodia to support Vietnam back for fighting down the Khmer Rouge and flowing millions of Vietnamese into Cambodia as thousands of Vietnamese communities showing in main cities of Cambodia, Cambodia side along Vietnam-Cambodia frontier, and around Tonle Sap Lake (Great Lake) populating around 2 to 3 millions based on the Wikipedia’s website. Today, Vietnam still restricted too much on the literate, cultural and traditional practices of all Khmer people in the South of Vietnam and today Cambodia’s province in Vietnamese map are still in new Vietnamese given name and so meaningful in Vietnamese, but were so far from the pronunciation and meaning of each Khmer names using worldwide. Turning to Japanese short occupation in early 1940s, Cambodia nearly lost large territories of western and northern part of Cambodia to Thailand since they were so close sharing benefits together during that time; Thailand was so flexible to shake hand with new winner and turn their back to them while losing for the hand shaking with western countries again. On the other hand, French colonial helped to secure Cambodia for awhile from Thailand and Vietnam since 1863, but they put Cambodia nearly beneath the land meaning making Cambodian people poorer and poorer with taxation, exporting natural and other resources to France, using too much local labor force to satisfy their needs like infrastructure building, war in Europe, and slavery. Being unforgettable besides the lost of Kampuchea Krom, France has cut administratively more territories and islands to Vietnam creating trouble for the Cambodia’s ownership of those territories, islands and marine border demarcation. Moreover, powerful Khmer people were used by those countries to fight each other as well as to fight those countries’ external enemy weakening Cambodia from time to time. At last, no independence for Cambodia and Khmer nation means no right to do anything, but to get command even contrast to the will of the nation.

After long consideration on the reason why Cambodia and Khmer nation should be independent, there will be a talk on how Cambodia should consider for using this independence properly. After getting independence from France, the stability in Cambodia was confidently seen from 1953 to the end 1960s. King NORODOM Shihanouk was smart for economic development until end 1960s starting the economic falling down because of the involvement of Cambodia with Vietnam War. Wishing to be a neutral nation, Cambodia had no choice since China, Russia, and the United State of America used political ideology in the region against each other and at last Cambodia chose China as the nearer country. According to political analysis of the researchers in the United States in 1958, position of Cambodia was in the dangerous world being challenged by superpowers, so it was not a mistake of any Cambodian leaders driving Cambodia to the poorest condition in Pol Pot Regime (1975 – 1979), but Cambodia was forced to and nearer nations always took much benefits of that situation. Billions US Dollars was lost through the war and the benefit-taking helpers. It is sure that Cambodia today being independent with own government, but how the government do to achieve the right target of economic development. Until today, Cambodia only produces raw materials to export while the Sangkum Reastr Niyum at least produced own goods and services to satisfy the local needs completely and appreciably. It was not just the admiration of Sangkum Reastr Niyum Regime, but the purpose of this is for today government to learn more how we achieve the target of the economic development in past decades before the last war period. It seems Cambodian leaders being admired too much with his Excellency, but do not forget that word is meaningless sometimes while the reality is much more to be done and should be done quickly while Cambodia is still rich of natural resources as well as young labor forces.  How should the government manage those valuable things in own hand effectively and efficiently? Natural resources in Cambodia were seen for decades not being controlled righteously. Gems and forest in Pailin have been illegal dug and cut down nearly out of the soils without providing much benefit to country. Forest and wild life management has been being too weak to prevent the illegal logging as well as exporting to foreign countries.  Why is it so bad? Forest and wild animals is actually the right thing for government and people to use, but using righteously means sustaining the forest and wild life for use longer period from generation to generation. Forest is not only providing wooden logs, but also able to attract local and foreign tourists bringing more revenues to the place. Wild life could be kept as natural zoos or artificial zoos to catch the interest of local and foreign tourists bringing much more benefits than sell its meat or export alive to nearby countries. Additionally, land concession is really being a main issue against good natural management. Why? Obviously, the main purpose of providing land concession is to develop on the land factories, hydro dams, big orchards, mineral explorations, or other kinds of development giving benefits to government, local people, and to the economic growth of the country, but today high percentage local people are being affected negatively and the sustainability for next generation is not really secured. Being heard on radio, some political activists raised the stakes that some companies just got the land concessions to log the woods and use all other natural resources like wild animals, mineral resource, and so on; then continued to ask for more land concession and transferred the old one to other companies or leaving it alone. If it is really happening, what would the government do to prevent those activities? Punishment in cash as well as growing back the green forest should be done to warn all other companies not to follow; land concession should be given with condition in contract and never given to nearer people nearby the border with their country. If providing to nearby people, 99 years or 100 years is so long and who would be responsible to get it back? And if they don’t grant it back, what are the prevention strategies for that generation government? If strategies exist, how effective and efficient is it to use? It was sure for today government being better to bring Cambodia here better situation after wars. However, most Cambodian people spent too much money extravagantly from lowest class to highest class people on the most luxury and modern finished goods that no longer bring much more benefits back to them if considering on the opportunity cost. It was not only the fault of government, but people themselves forgot the past as well as most new generations knowing nothing about the hardest time of Cambodia. Tourism sites such as ancient temples, natural sites, cultural sites, and proper creative amusements and parks should be established and protected both in town and field. Smiling and friendly environment to all tourists should be a good standard for all Khmer people to practice. Being imported from foreign countries, materials should be limitedly used like the most expensive car, cigarette, wine, beer, modern mobile phone, jewelries, most expensive electrical equipments and electronic devices, etc. Television and radio broadcasting system should focus more on new development research and education as well as proper news sharing and tourism promotion rather than just entertainment and advertisement; advertisement is surely good, but too much and advertisement for products and services not benefit to the economic development is worse than no advertisement. Advertising only good products and services, local citizens will also benefit and admire the smartest idea of each broadcasting system. Last but not least, Khmer community in Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam should focus more on language conservation as well as better well-being adapting new good ideas from each country and giving up all bad ideas for the sake of modern development and better cultural protection. Each country should allow Khmer people and other ethnic groups to practice their own culture just guaranteeing no actions affect negatively the development of each country. “Wishing better, taking better actions!” “Opportunity cost should be first consideration before doing anything in this world globalization!”  “Development is not only for the country government, but also for all people within the country!” “Independence means self-economic supports, self-political supports, and self-sovereignty supports!”

By: POK Panhavuth

Lyric of “Ptey Samot Khmer”, Sung by: ROS Sereysothea (រស់ សេរីសុទ្ធា)

I.ឱ!ផ្ទៃសមុទ្រ ផុតកន្ទុយភ្នែក ទឹកជាប់ជើងមេឃ ពណ៌ខៀវស្រងាត់ រលករលេញ ប្រដេញមិនស្ងាត់ ប្រណាំងសូរសត្វ ស្រែកយំអឺងកង។

II.រលកបោកថ្ម សូរដូចសំដី ត្រូវជាតិទឹកប្រៃ ល្អពេកកន្លង រសៀលគងភ្នំ ទោចយំឆ្លើយឆ្លង ស្រែកផ្តាំអ្នកផង សាយ័ណ្ហ សន្ធិយា។

R.សូរិយាគងទឹក រលឹកផែនដី ចាំងចោលរស្មី លើផ្ទៃគង្គា ដូចពេជ្រគេច្នៃ ដោយដៃរចនា រត់ប្រលែងគ្នា ពេញដែនជលស័យ។

III.ថ្ងៃលិចផុតទៅ សល់នូវចន្ទ្រា កំដរគង្គា ចងជានិស្ស័យ ផ្ទៃសមុទ្រខ្មែរ  ទោះយប់ឬថ្ងៃ ទេសភាពល្អក្រៃ គួរចង់ទស្សនា។

(ភ្លេងរួចច្រៀងRនិងIIIឡើងវិញ)

Lyric of “Neak Na Min Rom”, Sung by: HUY Meas (ហួយ មាស) and Dara Chom Chan (តារា ចោមច័ន្រ្ទ)

I.រាំ! រាំ! រាំ! យើងនាំគ្នារាំគ្រប់កាយ រាំសប្បាយសប្បាយ សប្បាយម្ល៉េះទេ ភ្លេង យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ....... យេ​យេ.... យេ យេ..... សប្បាយម្ល៉េះទេ សប្បាយម្ល៉េះទេ  រាំរាំយើងរាំ។

II.មើលនុះហ្ន! អ្នកណានោះពាក់វ៉ែនតា អូហ!នុះ!តាគាត់ មិនព្រមរាំនឹងគេ អាណិតណាស់ គាត់មិនចេះរាំ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ យេ..... យេ យេ........ មានតែយើងទេ រាំផងច្រៀងផង​ យើ​ យើ​ យើ យើ..........។

III.ហា! អីយ៉ាស់!​ លោកតាគាត់ឡើងរាំហើយ មិនដឹងឡើយថា គាត់រាំស្ទាត់ណាស់ដែរ​ យី!គាត់រាំរាំរាំ សែនសមជាងគេ យេ យេ យេ យេ.... យេ យេ.... សប្បាយម្ល៉េះទេ  រាំរាំយើងរាំ រាំរាំយើងរាំ។

(ភ្លេងរួចច្រៀងឡើងវិញ)

Lyric of “Reatrey Phnom Penh or Phnom Penh Night”, Sung by: HUY Meas (ហួយ មាស)

I.ភ្នំពេញសែនសប្បាយ ក្នុងពេលរាត្រី នៅតាមដងវិថី រស្មីភ្លឺថ្លា វាំងប្រាសាទ សួនច្បារដូចឋាន សួគ៌ាគ្រប់គ្នា តែងកោតសរសើរ។

II.ខ្លះនាំគូសង្សារ យាត្រាកំសាន្ត ខ្លះនាំគ្នាជិះឡាន ខ្លះនាំគ្នាដើរ ក្នុងសួនច្បារ រាបស្មើបុប្ផា បង្ហើរគន្ធា មកប៉ះនាសា។

R.ចិត្តក៏ឥតកង្វល់ បើបានមកយល់ ភ្នំពេញកាលណា ក្រុងរៀបថ្មី ស្នាដៃអស្ចារ្យ សង្ហាជាងក្រុងដទៃ។

III.សមឋានៈប្រទេស ដែលឯករាជ្យ សមតែរាស្ត្រខ្លបខ្លាច មិនអាចមើលងាយ រាស្ត្រសង្ឃឹមសព្វថ្ងៃ ក៏បានដោយសារ បារមីសម្តេច។

(ភ្លេងរួចច្រៀងRនិងIIIឡើងវិញ)

Lyric of “Chong Tae Nov Kromom”, Sung by: HUY Meas (ហួយ មាស)

I.ចង់នៅតែអ្ហើយក្រមុំ ចង់នៅតែអ្ហើយក្រមុំ នៅក្រមុំព្រហ្មចារីយ (២ដង) ស្តាយខ្លួនជាស្រី ស្តាយខ្លួនជាស្រី អ្ហើយមានប្តីនាំខ្វល់។

II.កុំទៅជឿអ្ហើយប្រុសប្រុស កុំទៅជឿអ្ហើយប្រុសប្រុស ស្មោះចំពោះតែដំបូងទេ (២ដង) ស្គាល់ប្រាណអ្ហើយបានស្នេហ៍ ស្គាល់ប្រាណអ្ហើយបានស្នេហ៍ ហើយក៏ប្រែរកថ្មី។

III.មើលទៅឃ្មុំអ្ហើយក្រេបផ្កា មើលទៅឃ្មុំអ្ហើយក្រេបផ្កា ក្រេបតែផ្កាណាមានលំអង (២ដង) ផ្កាណាអើយចាកទង ផ្កាណាអើយចាកទង ឃ្មុំលែងប៉ងក្រេបហើយ។

IV.ទុកក្រមុំអោយម៉ែមើល ទុកក្រមុំអោយម៉ែមើល ចិត្តមិនដែលចង់បានប្តីទេ (២ដង) ម៉ែអើយម៉ែ ម៉ែអើយម៉ែ ម៉ែកុំចង់បានចៅអី។

(ភ្លេងរួចច្រៀងIIនិងIIIឡើងវិញ)